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He shall cover thee with His feathers, and under His wings shalt thou trust;
His truth shall be thy shield and buckler.
Thou shalt not be afraid for the terror by night; nor for the arrow that flieth
by day.
-Psalms 91
ON TOUR
WEST COAST AND CENTRAL INDIA
7TH - 16TH AUGUST 2003
With Hero Honda CBZ - KA01 U 289
Odometer 31586km to 35320 km
Though I have
been on motorbike to many places in my home state of Tamil Nadu, and adjacent states
of Kerala and Karnataka - where I work - I was long dreaming of a big tour.
Even as I was in college, my friends and myself used to ride to near and far
places on bike, and it was then our plan to reunite after we start working, and
go on a mega tour. Now, I've lost touch with all of them. Also, now that I've
started working, I felt I could afford a big tour, and decided to do it all by
myself.I planned to do South India
first, covering all four southern states and two union territories of Goa and
Pondicherry. On discussions with my friends here in Bangalore, they opined that
riding through Andhra Pradesh will only be dry and boring, and that TamilNadu
and Kerala were known places. Instead, I was suggested some other alternatives,
many of which didn't fit well into my budget or the distance I planned to cover
- 4000kms. One plan was to ride to Delhi and return, but the oncoming
Independence Day security arrangements will only mean I will have trouble doing
that. Riding up to Gujarat and back meant more than 4000 kms. Rajasthan was
beyond reach. I was also aiming at keeping a wildlife sanctuary or national
park as destination. Gujarat had Gir and Rajasthan had Sariska and Ranthambore,
but both were beyond 4000kms. I also aimed at covering the western coast.
After
much thought and discussions, I decided to ride up to Pench National Park(NP)
in Madhya Pradesh and return. I had heard about Pench from a Forest Officer at
Bandipur NP, while he was describing a tiger encounter. Thus, a final route
plan was arrived at. The route is thus:
Bangalore - Mangalore
Mangalore - Panaji, Goa
Panaji - Pune
Pune - Jalgaon or Akola
Jalgaon - Pench NP, MP
Pench - Hyderabad
Hyderabad - Bangalore
I
should state that my interest in wildlife - especially tigers and Project Tiger
- is the reason for my having a NP as major stop over. Pench NP comes under
Project Tiger and though small has a good concentration of tigers, estimated at
55. The route also covered the western coast which I wanted to ride through. To
add some life to the riding, I also planned to visit Jog falls, Ajanta and
Ellora caves en route to Pench, not to mention that Mangalore, Goa themselves
are tourist spots. I also wanted to see
the Western Ghats during this heavy monsoon season.
The
route decided, other arrangements were made. As for the bike, it was serviced,
front suspension oils replaced, insurance renewed, spare spark plug, headlamp
bulb were stocked, my petrocard (Bharat Petroleum) loaded with the required
money. I planned to use the card at BPCL outlets along the route to refuel,
instead of carrying cash. For staying, I planned to stay at Youth Hostel at
Goa, at a friend's place in Pune, and at my cousin's place at Hyderabad. At
Mangalore and Jalgaon/Akola I knew no one, so thought of finding a motel for
the night halts. I knew that all parks and sanctuaries are closed for three
months during monsoon in Madhya Pradesh, but was relieved to know that the
forest rest houses can be used for accommodation purposes. I enquired through
email, and was confirmed a rest house at a place called Karmajhiri inside Pench
NP. I applied for leave at office for 4 days, either side of which was a 3 day
weekend.
The
tour began from a friend's place in Bangalore with good wishes from friends and
colleagues, at 8 AM on 7th Aug, 2003. Following is a day by day account
of the 10 day tour. You will have to bear with me through this long story.
DAY 1 - Bangalore to Mangalore, Karnataka
The
route is through National Highway(NH) 4 - which connects Chennai and Thane -
upto Nelamangala, then take a left turn westwards to Hassan, Sakleshpur and
reach Mangalore after crossing the great Western Ghats, a distance of some
350kms. It took some 45 minutes to get out of Bangalore and hit the NH4, and
leave Bangalore behind. After that, it was a pleasure to ride through the vast
green fields. Since it was the monsoon season, the skies were clear and bright
blue, with the clouds clear white and distinct. The weather was soothing, with
a cool wind blowing. I reached Sakleshpur sometime around 1pm. Sakleshpur marks
the beginning of the Western Ghats, and was situated in a hilly region. There
was a slight drizzle, and I took a break for lunch. The skies cleared up, and
hoping they would remain so, I resumed journey. I wouldn't have gone much,
when, after entering the ghats, rains came down heavily, in the afternoon. I
took shelter under a bus stop. The rains eased, and I went further, and again
it was raining heavily. This time I stopped at a tea stall run by Malayalees -
these guys are everywhere. The place is called the Shiradi Ghat section, and
being inside the Western Ghats, it was second only to Agumbe - in receiving
rainfall. Agumbe is one of the wettest places in the whole of India - something
Karnataka should be proud of - where rains are measured in feet, not
millimeters. Agumbe is only some 200 kms north of Shirdi Ghat. I was already a
little wet, and waited for the rains to ease. For more than an hour, the rains
lashed the place very heavily, and I don't remember having seen such massive
rains. It was as though someone is pouring gallons of water from above.
The tea-stall guy said such rains are usual
here. The rains seemed to have eased after an hour, and I continued my journey
further, only to enter more rains. The rains seemed to lash each section of
ghats sequentially, and I had to pass these sections. Another stop at another
stall, and then I decided to get wet, no matter what. I got into the heavy
rains, and rode through the Shiradi Ghat, dripping wet. I was confident that
water will not get into my backpack, which was water proof. The roads were also broken at some places, and I had
to go slow on such wet conditions. However wet I may be, I was only feeling
glad to ride through it all, and witness such rains. I guess heavy rains have
the same soothing effect on other men too, as it had on me. Rains seem to make
human mind better.
Passing
Shiradi Ghat, the rains stopped, and the roads were less wet. Then, alas, the
roads were dry, and I was dripping wet. Nonstop, I rode on, to reach Mangalore
sometime past 5pm. I found a decent motel at a place called Kankanadi and
checked in. After changing clothes, I visited a nearby beach at a place called
Ullal. Thereafter, supper at a restaurant, and to motel room. It started
drizzling, then it came on to rain heavily. All night, Mangalore received heavy
rains, while I slept.
DAY 2 - Mangalore to Panaji, Goa
The route is all along the western coast, on NH17,
that comes from Kerala, passes Mangalore and goes up to Panvel near Mumbai. The
distance from Mangalore to Panaji is roughly 375 kms. The roads are very good,
and pass close to the west coast. I was also looking forward to this section of
the tour. I checked out of the motel at 7AM, and after milk there, started the
day's journey. The roads were wet, but allowed good speeds since traffic was
thin and the road was in great shape. But a little past Mangalore, it started
raining. I again stopped at a bus shelter for some 30 minutes.
There was a little boy in school uniform
waiting for his school bus to pick him up, and gave me company, as I chatted
with him and as the rains lashed. After he left, I decided to get wet again,
since there is no other option, and I had to go a long way. Breakfast was had
at the outskirts of Udupi. The road passes through scenic landscape, and both sides
bright green trees posed a soothing sight to look at. The rains eased at some
places, and beat down heavily at other places. Though the NH17 passes through
the west coast, the beach is not visible at most places, and at only one place
the road went very close to the Arabian Sea. Here, on the left side of the
road, was the beach. I stopped for tea. It was not raining, though the road was
wet. Further ahead, I could see the clouds opening up and rains pouring down
heavily, and slowly approaching my spot.
Heading into the rains, I rode past
them, and reached Honnavar at 12pm. Honnavar is a major railhead on the Konkan
Railway. From here, a right turn leads to Jog falls, 60km away inside the
ghats. I decided to visit Jog falls, though time was short, and planned to
return to Honnavar by 3pm. Riding through the ghats was very pleasant. The
roads were wet, but it was not even drizzling.
The
Western Ghats is a place to see, during the monsoon. It was rich green
everywhere, and nature at its best. Water was everywhere, and everything is
wet. There is a place en route where one can view the Sharavathi Valley. At a
distance, Sharavathi was winding through great mountains, forming a beautiful
valley. The place falls in the Sharavathi Valley Wildlife Sanctuary(WS) region.
My route passed through Gersoppa - where I'd been trekking last year - and to
Jog Falls. En route, a truck had slipped on the mud and was in the verge of
falling into a deep valley from the road side. Some men, with the help of
another pulling truck, were making a pulley like structure with iron ropes to
haul back the falling truck. I passed them, and reached Jog a little after
that. There were few tourists at Jog. Jog was magnificient - falling several
hundreds of feet into a deep gorge, Sharavathi leaps down in 4 beautiful
waterfalls. After some snaps, I left. Way back, I stopped for a few minutes to
watch the men who were still trying to pull the truck back on to road. They
used iron ropes tied at one end to a pulling truck, and other end tied to the
falling truck. The rope was looped through a pulley, which was firmly lashed to
trees and rocks on the hillside. I watched them pull once, and fail. I had to
go on, and proceeding further on a fast pace, I ran over a small snake. I
stopped some distance away, and turning back saw the snake slide away with a
raised hood. Was not sure how much I injured it. Again a little further, I just
managed to avoid a bigger snake, and again stopped to see it. In great speed it
went to the roadside, with raised hood, then came back onto the road. Its speed
alarmed me, and I left the place. I guess both snakes were cobras, going by
their raised hood. Thereafter, I managed to get back to Honnavar a little past
3pm. Lunch at Honnavar, and then a fast ride through scenic countryside, and
the road left Karnataka to enter Goa a little past the port town of Karwar.
NH17
inside Goa was narrower and passed through forested hilly regions. Traffic was
also thin, but grew as Panaji approached. It was sometime around 7pm when I reached
the Youth Hostel at Miramar, Goa. Being a member of YHAI(Youth Hostels Assn.
India), I was given a room immediately. I had supper at a nearby restaurant.
The masala dosa I ordered was costly and bad. Maybe I shouldn't have ordered
south Indian food. I went to bed early at 9pm. Some students from Tamil Nadu -
on tour - were put up in the adjacent rooms and were making much noise. But I
being comfortably tired, was soon asleep.
Day 3 - Panaji to Pune, Maharashtra
The hostel is located right next to the Miramar
Beach, and one can hear the waves banging on the walls a little near the
hostel. Early morning I spent a pleasant hour at this beach side watching a man
fishing. I left Goa at 8AM, and went along NH17 for some 100kms. To reach Pune
I have to go to NH4. NH17 and NH4 run parallel to some distance, and Kolhapur
in NH4 occurs at this stretch. My objective is to get to Kolhapur, so after
breakfast at some place the name of which I don't remember, and after oiling
the bike's moving parts at a mechanic shop, I took a right turn towards
Kolhapur. Again, the Western Ghats had to be crossed, and again it was raining
heavily. I got wet, but rode on, and reached a small village called Amboli, at
an altitude of 1000m above MSL. I guess it is a tourist place, for there was a
very beautiful waterfalls on the hillside, and few tourists were present. The
whole place was wet, but the rain had stopped. Heavy dew had set in, reducing
visibility to only a couple of feet. I very badly wanted to snap the falls, but
the film roll finished. Luckily, the petty shop had one last roll. I bought it,
but then realized the battery also had died. The type of battery required for
the camera was not with the petty shop, and I had to proceed on. Passing
through village roads, I stopped en route on a grassy road side to dry myself
and the clothes in the sun. In the next town, I changed engine oil for the
bike, and going on, reached Kolhapur, and NH4. Lunch was had at a dhaba past
Kolhapur. Very unfortunately, the stretch between Kolhapur and Pune was under
conversion to 4-Lanes, and hence there were numerous diversions to take every
couple of kilometers. Progress was very slow, and the ride was very difficult
owing to the bad to very bad roads. One had to virtually come to a stop before
taking the diversions, which were strewn with big stones and potholes.
Approaching
Pune, the roads were better for some distance. At one place, there was a long
tunnel around a kilometer long. A very beautiful one, and the longest I've ever
rode through. The road was at its best, and the bike just sailed through it.
After that, it grew dark, and with slight drizzles, I had to be very slow.
Roads again grew worse, and at a ghat just before Pune, the road was at its
worst with only potholes and gutters, and thick traffic. Again, much strain for
both me and the bike, and I reached Pune sore at many places, and not in a very
good mood, a little past 8pm. A
friend's brother works here, and since the friend also had reached Pune to
spend the weekend with his brother, I was to stay with them. They lived at
'Parihar Chowk' in Aundh area of Pune. After some directions from passers by, I
reached the place, and was given a very warm welcome by the friennd's brother,
Mr. Nanda. A much required wash at their place, and a lengthy dinner thereafter
with another friend of Nanda, eased me. The day's exhaustion was much and so I
decided to rest the next day at Pune. We slept at Nanda's friend's place the
night.
Day 4 - Rest day at Pune
We woke up late in the morning, and spent it lazily.
A breakfast of Idlis and Dosas was had at a nearby restaurant. Afternoon there
was no power, and again spent sleeping. Late afternoon, we went to Pune
University where Nanda's office is situated. The university was old and
historic, and a good academic ambience prevailed, or so it seemed to me. We had
some light snacks at a shop inside the campus. The campus is green and had good
tree cover.
Later,we went to a place called FC Rd where we had traditional Marathi food. It was a
very good experience. Some parts of the 'thali' were good and tasty, while
others didn't appeal much to me. I also bought a couple of maps at a shop
there. Pune was very commercial, and seemed to be a very busy city. The roads
were very bad to worse. There were no smooth rides, and the traffic was also
chaotic.
Late
evening we returned to Nanda's apartment, and a surprise awaited me. An old
friend and college mate of mine was also housed in the same apartment, and
working at Nanda's office. We stared at each other for sometime out of shock.
It had been years since we had left university, and spent a lot of time
talking. Thereafter to bed at midnight.
I
should also mention here the great hospitality shown by both Nanda and his
friend. Nanda was a die hard trekker, and since we had similar interests, spent
much time talking on the subject, and sharing experiences. Nanda seemed to have
great experience in trekking the Sahayadri range in Maharashtra, and his
interest was in exploring the ruins of forts and historical monuments.
Day 5 - Pune to Jalgaon, Maharashtra
The day's
plan was to ride to Aurangabad, visit Ajanta and Ellora caves, and then join NH
6 at Jalgaon, a distance of some 450 kms. Nanda escorted me to some distance to
show me way outside Pune. Bidding adieu, I proceeded, and after some 4 hours of
ride, reached the historic town of Aurangabad. I had lunch at a restaurant,
where I was also informed that Ajanta is closed today, and Ellora is open.
Ellora was 30km away, and I spent an
hour there. The historic caves had been excavated many centuries back. There
were many carvings in stone of Budha, monks, etc. There were considerable
tourists too.
Maharashtra didn't seem to be a safe place for a lone
traveler. All around, there were signs of Hinduism, and fanatics. There were
men with red turban like cloth on their forehead, and flags saying 'Shiv Sena'.
I didn't feel safe here; At Ellora, there was a group of local men, looking
like ruffians, and I felt they were following me.
When I got into caves, they
came with me. Wherever I went they came along, and if I sat at a bench, they
also sat nearby. I hence had to avoid lonely caves and places where there
weren't anyone. I cut short the tour of Ellora and returned to the parking lot
immediately thereafter.
From Ellora a good state highway went to Jalgaon,
passing Ajanta enroute. A little before Jalgaon, it rained, and I reached
Jalgaon wet. I found a hotel to stay the night; but I didn't like it. However,
since I only slept the time I was there, it didn't matter much.
Jalgaon seemed to be a small town
bustling with activity.
Day 6 - Jalgaon to Karmajhiri, Pench National Park, Madhya Pradesh
After an early breakfast, I left Jalgaon at around
8am. The day's plan was to ride upto Nagpur, and turn north on NH7 towards
Seoni in Madhya Pradesh and find my way to Karmajhiri Forest Rest House. The
distance is roughly 550kms. The road between Jalgaon and Nagpur is NH6. NH6
alternatively had bad and good roads, and allowed good speeds. I passed
Malkapur, Akola and Amaravati. From Amaravati town, the roads were four laned
and at their best for some distance. Lunch was had somewhere past Amaravati.
Since
I thought there might be a shortcut northwards into Pench instead of going upto
Nagpur, I called Pench to know this information. But I was told no such
shortcut existed, and the proper entry was at Khawasa, on NH7, immediately past
Madhya Pradesh border between Nagpur and Seoni. I was told to come to Khawasa
and meet the range officer there. So to Nagpur I went hurriedly, since I wanted
to reach Karmajhiri by 7 or 8pm. I reached Nagpur at 5pm sharp. Nagpur was a
clean and beautiful city with good roads. The traffic policemen were very
helpful, and at each signal I was clearly directed out of the city by them. Here
is NH7. The longest NH in India, connecting Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh to
Kanyakumari in Tamilnadu, the whole stretch of which I am very familiar with in
Tamilnadu. Though not 4 laned yet here, the road is at its best. Riding at a
fast pace past Nagpur, I reached the Maharashtra - Madhya Pradesh border. The
road here passes through the Pench WS and is forested on both sides.
Entering
Madhya Pradesh, I reached Khawasa immediately thereafter and met with the
forest personnel at the checkpost. It was a little past 7pm, and getting dark.
I was told that Karmajhiri is 30kms away from Khawasa through forest, and I
will not be allowed on a two wheeler now. I was also told to take the NH7 for
another 30kms to a village called Suktara, and to take a left turn there
towards Karmajhiri, 30kms from there, through Badalpar village.
It
was by now dark, but thankfully no rains. I rode upto Suktara, took the left
turn towards Badalpar, and started the slow ride on the bad roads. This is the
road that I had been instructed to take, in the email from Pench Field
Director. A very slow ride, past Badalpar village, Ghatkohki village, and
through some forest, I reached Karmajhiri forest department compound at 9pm. I
met with the deputy range officer there, who kindly put me in a neat resthouse
room. He was a lean, short man and we spent sometime chatting, as the supper
got ready for me. Thereafter he left, and the tribal boys employed by the
department brought me my food to the room. A sumptuous meal of rotis, rice, dal
and sabji - what I wanted after the day's exhaustion - in a calm environment
inside the forest, is all that I wanted. The atmosphere was filled with all
sorts of jungle sounds, and the occasional crying of peafowl.
Since
I'm much interested in wildlife and jungles, and having spent many nights in
jungles, I have come to like it a lot, and this night seemed to be worth the
effort that I had put in to reach this place in the world. There were no other
tourists in any of the other resthouse rooms since the park is closed, and
there was complete silence. After supper, I went to bed. A sound sleep, and
sometime during the night was awakened by the calling of chital. I woke up and
peered out through the window. The moon wasn't up yet, and in the eerie
darkness, vaguely made out the figures of hundreds of chital grazing in the
grass field next to my room. I continued to my sleep thereafter, and woke up at
6AM next morning, to a glorious day.
Day 7 - At Karmajhiri, Pench NP
Pench
National Park is in the state border of Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh. The
park on the Madhya Pradesh side is called Indira Priyadarshini Pench National
Park. This park, together with the Pench Wildlife Sanctuary along the NH7
between Nagpur and Seoni form the Pench Tiger Reserve. Together, this tiger
reserve forms an area of some 1000 sq. kms, of which the core Pench NP forms
some 300 sq. kms. Karmajhiri is in the border of Pench NP. The forest
department rest house compound and the Karmajhiri village are a little distance
away. All these villages inside the reserve - Badalpar, Karmajhiri, etc are
inhabited by tribal people called Gaonds. Badalpar is the biggest village here,
consisting of 100 families, while Karmajhiri houses 20 families. Pench Tiger
Reserves is covered by Project Tiger - initiated by Ms. Indira Gandhi in 1974
to protect the tiger from extinction. Pench wasn't a tourist destination till
recently, and doesn't enjoy much publicity as Kanha or Bandhavgarh in the same
state. The Pench river flows through
the reserve and hence the name.
Early
morning I had a stroll in the After breakfast, I was introduced to a research
student from Chennai, residing in a quarters nearby. Due to similar interests,
we had much to talk, and I had a lot to learn from him about wildlife. He was
from Wildlife Institute of India(WII) attached with Dehradun university and
doing research on the topic 'Habitat of the Wild Dogs in Pench NP'. We talked a
lot - about wildlife in general, his subject, wild dogs, tigers, panthers,
radio collaring, animal movements, forest department, and much much more.
By
afternoon, I guess I had disturbed him enough. He had his reports to write. So
I left him, and went to my room. Lunch was brought to my room. After lunch, I
decided to go on a long walk inside the park, in a hope to sight a tiger if
opportunity offered. Taking the binoculars and camera, I set off. A jeep track
led deep inside the park. Walking along this road, watching the birds, looking
for pug marks, time passed. I also left the track and followed ravies and sandy
nullas for pugmarks. But I didn't find any since the previous night's rain had
washed away everything. Chital were everywhere in huge numbers, forming the
main prey base for the big cats. I had to start the return walk at 5pm to reach
the room by nightfall. Though the forest had a lot of interesting things to
observe, the fear of a sudden tiger encounter was real, and frightening. Since
I had been told that tigers and leopards did come near the rest house complex
at night, and only a couple of days previously a tiger had been sighted near
the rest house, I was high on hopes.
Though
the hope is high, the fear is as high. I should admit that at a couple of
spots, while looking both sides into the tree jungle, I mistook some stump or
rock for a tiger and my heart missed a beat or two as I froze. Langurs, Chital
stood still or ran away as I passed. While scouting around a pond off the track
for tiger pugmarks, I found a leopard's pugmarks, probably a day old. But wasn't
unable to track it into the thickets owing to the wet conditions.
I also spotted wild boards, parakeets,
beeeaters and vultures. A little distance before the room, I spotted some
chital grazing, a 100meters away from the track, before they spotted me. To add
some fun, I decided to stalk them as much as possible, and lied low. Keeping
the binoculars and the bushes aside, I started crawling slowly through the
grass and bushes. I did it very slowly, and took some 15 minutes to cover 50
meters, moving only when the chital bent down to graze, and remaining still
when the looked in my direction. But after the 50metres, however, they heard
me, but didn't see me behind the bushes. They looked intently in my direction,
without a movement. I remained still, and then they gave their alarm calls.
There were a lot of calls at regular intervals, as they stood still staring my
side. Then I gave up, and suddenly stood up as some of the most surprised
cheetal in Pench bounded away into the jungle beyond.
It
is at the neighboring Chintdwara forests that my hero, Jim Corbett, at the age
of 70, spent months teaching soldiers of the Indian Army jungle warfare and
survival techniques for the Burmese Jungles, during the second world war. From
the day I started reading his books, to this day, he continues to remain my
hero, for his extraordinary courage, kind heart, and his skills relating to the
jungle.
The
day was 'Raksha Bandhan', when women tie knots on men's hands symbolizing
brother-sister relationship. As I stood near my room, some men and a lot of
women from Karmajhiri village came to the compound beating drums and singing.
They stood sometime, then as I stood chatting with a staff, they came to us,
and each woman put a straw of grass - grass of 'gehun' - on our ears, shook
hands and wished us, some even fell at our feet, greatly embarrassing me. It
was interesting to see the beliefs and habits of these tribal people, living in
such a remote place. After all, they are my brothers and sisters. After all,
they are Indians.
Supper
was brought to my room. I went to sleep at 10pm, deciding to leave early next
morning for Hyderabad, on my return journey back home to Bangalore. I had three
more days to complete the tour, and had a dilemma in deciding whether to do the
return journey of 1200kms in two days or three days. I could not come to a
decision, so decided to start the journey and decide it in the way.
Day 8 - At Turia Gate, Pench National Park
I had told the boys that I will leave early. Tea
arrived at 6AM, and after settling the bills with the officer, I packed up and
left Karmajhiri at 6.30AM. On return, I took the forest road to Khawasa, 30 kms
away, instead of the way I came - through Badalpar, Suktara. Two wheelers are
not allowed through this road, since the path goes through dense forest and
core national park areas. But owing to my situation, I was allowed to do so. I
was also told that I might get lost due to various diversions on the road, but
given rough directions. That I had to pass through Alikatta and reach Turia
Gate, the main entrance of the NP, 25kms away. I was told to take a diversion
before Alikatta, since the road had been blocked due to an overflowing
nulla. From 6.30AM to 8AM, I fumbled
through this dense jungle, taking one route after the other, misleading at some
places, and leading nowhere at others. The fear of a meeting a tiger on the
road - in this early hour - was also high, and there was a big lump on my
throat as I rode through this route. I never imagined it would be this
difficult in daylight, forget finding my way to Karmajhiri on my way from
Khawasa two days back, in dark. Chital in hundreds were grazing, and langurs
watched as I rode by. I had to use my compass to decide which one to take when
the road forked. Thus, making guesses, and after 25kms, I arrived upon a bigger
mud road, and turning left, saw a huge gate and forest camp some 200 meters
away, and immediately identified it as Turia Gate, the main entrance into the
NP for tourists from Khawasa.
Hearing
the sound of a bike arriving from inside the jungle at the gate, a burly man
came out of the camp to meet with me. I explained him who I am and why I am
here at such an hour. He was surprised, but believed me when I showed the
receipt I'd been given at Karmajhiri. He possessed a good sense of humour and a
loud voice. As is with good men, he invited me for tea. I was a bit weary after
the terrifying ride through the park, and gladly accepted the tea offer. Over
tea, we chatted, and he found that I'm a Christian too. He introduced himself
as Kamlesh Washington, Game Guard, Pench National Park and that he belonged to
adjacent Chintdwara district, that his father George Washington served at Pench
for long years, and Kamlesh has been serving for close to 20 years in Pench.
Over the tea, he also invited me to stay a day there at Turia and tour the
park, and leave for Hyderabad the next day. Since I had a day to spare, I
gladly accepted the offer.
Thus,
the day's plans changed at very short notice. Khawasa was 11 kms from Turia
Gate, and since my film roll was about to finish, myself and Kamlesh went to
Khawasa for some snacks and the film roll. After returning, we had tea. Kamlesh
and two other officers of the rank of Foresters are stationed at Turia Gate,
with two tribal boys for help and cooking. Kamlesh and myself packed a bag with
binoculars, camera, snacks, etc and set off into the park, on bike. He rode,
while I sat pillion. He took me deeper and deeper into the park, and though the
ride was bumpy due to the terrain, it was great to see the inner regions of the
park. We finally arrived at a small camp adjacent to the pench river, where a
couple of tribals were grazing 4 elephants.
Unlike
the National Parks in southern India where tourist vehicles are not allowed
inside the park and tourists are taken in park vehicles for viewing game, it is
different here in the National Parks of Madhya Pradesh. Tourist vehicles are
allowed to roam inside the park, with a guide from the Turia Gate. Also mahouts
on 4 elephants of the park go in search of tigers, and when one finds a tiger,
wireless message is sent to all guides and other elephants. They all assemble
at the place where the tiger is sighted, some distance away, and the tourists
are taken on elephant backs - 4 at a time - to view the tiger at close
quarters. A charge of Rs.50 is levied per head at this point, when a tiger
sighting is confirmed. The elephants are camped at Alikatta.
An
interesting thing that Kamlesh told me was the story of two tiger cubs - a male
and a female - abandoned by their mother for some reason. The cubs haven't
received training yet from their mother to hunt, and hence were unable to
support themselves in the wild. At present Kamlesh and team are providing the
cubs with food, by way of other animal kills. Tourists aren't allowed to the
area where the cubs reside, for the cubs might get frightened and move deeper
into the forest where the forest department might totally lose them, or the
cubs might get provoked and start attacking humans without reason. Presently,
Kamlesh or one of the tribal assistants go by foot into the forest to sight the
cubs and note their well being, on a regular basis. To me, it was interesting
to note how Kamlesh and his team knew many of the tigers individually, often
tracking their growth and movements. The story of the abandoned cubs has also
figured in the Madhya Pradesh media.
As
for tiger sightings, it is difficult to see them during the rains. The canopy
is thicker, and the forest is more dense, and hence even if we pass a tiger
under a lantana bush, we might not notice him. I was told that there was good
chance of seeing them during the summer, when the forest is dry, and one can
see through the trees, and tigers roam around for water.
Since
the park is closed for the monsoon, the elephants had been brought here near
the Pench river for grazing. One of the elephants had given birth to a calf,
and I spent some time watching the elephants and the calf graze at close
quarters. We were served tea, and then left for another camp called 'boat
camp'. Boat camp was a couple of kms away, in the banks of the Pench river.
There were two tents, and some boats in the river bank. There were two tribals
at the camp. We spent sometime chatting, and since Kamlesh was intent on taking
some fish for dinner, we all took out a boat and cast the net and returned.
Thereafter a lazy afternoon was spent, as Kamlesh dozed, and I went around the
place. Then, I spent sometime bathing in the river, and washing and drying my
clothes. Later, by around 3pm, we took the boat out again to see if any fish
have been caught. To my great thrill, there were 3 fishes in the net. Two were
of the same variety, and the third was longer and heavier. Totally they must've
weighed some 10 to 15kilos. We returned to the boat camp with this bounty. By
this time, another forester with a tribal arrived in a motorcycle to the camp,
and they all spent sometime playing cards, while I dozed away in a tent.
A
little past 4pm, myself and Kamlesh left the boat camp taking the fish with us.
He again took me through the core jungle areas on our way to Alikatta camp.
Only one tribal staff was there at Alikatta, and after a brief halt, we
proceeded towards Turia gate. Chital, Nilgai, Langur, Peafowl were in plenty
all along the way. We reached Turia gate at around 6pm, after which it began
raining heavily. While Kamlesh set upon cleaning and cutting the fish with the
help of the tribal assistants, I set out to wash the bike in the pouring rain.
The bike, after so many days of long riding through dirt, mud, rain and sun,
was posing a very dirty picture, and well deserved a thorough scrubbing and
washing.
Later
I watched the men as they prepared the fish curry and rotis. A hearty dinner ,
and to bed thereafter. Tomorrow is India's 57th Independence Day,
and we are to be at Khawasa Forest Office at 7am for the flag hoisting
ceremony. I should also state that there was a slight disappointment too in my
mind for the tiger had evaded me this time too, but the experience in Pench was
wholesome that the disappointment was negligible.
Kamlesh
was a very religious person, and the two days that I spent with him, he read
the Bible in the morning, read me a few verses, did a short preaching, and
assembling the tribals and myself, prayed for each one of us, in addition to
praying for his own family and daughters and Chintdwara. I was indeed amazed at
such a personality at such a place.
Day 9 - Khawasa to Hyderabad
After an early tea and bath, Kamlesh and myself left
for Khawasa. I packed up and took my bag along. At Khawasa Forest Office, some
20 men from the Forest Department had assembled. The Tricolor Indian Flag was
hoisted by an officer, and the national anthem sung. It was a different flag
hoisting ceremony for me, and I'll long remember it. Sweets and light snacks
thereafter, and Kamlesh served everyone with a bitter tasting liquid that he
had prepared from herbs and plants he collects from the park. It was fun
watching some of the officers gulping down that awful liquid with a twisted
face. Earlier the day at Turia Kamlesh gave a dose of the liquid to me and the
tribals; it did taste bitter and smelt awful. But he said it contains good
medicinal value. He also gave me a bottle of the liquid to take to Bangalore.
At
8AM, after bidding adieu to the department staff and Kamlesh, I left Khawasa
for Hyderabad. Khawasa itself is in NH7, and my route up to Hyderabad was
through this NH. The total distance from Khawasa to Hyderabad was approximately
575kms. I passed Nagpur a little past 9pm, and after breakfast at a highway
hotel, did a fast ride, for the roads were mostly in good shape, except for
short stretches of bad roads due to rains. I passed Adilabad, Karmareddy on
way. Lunch was had at a BPCL highway outlet somewhere in Andhra Pradesh. I
touched the outskirts of Hyderabad after 7pm, and spent the night at a cousin's
place.
Day 10 - Hyderabad to Bangalore
I
started from Hyderabad at around 8.15AM. The city traffic was dense, and I had
a tough time finding my way out and to NH7 towards Bangalore. It took me more
than an hour to come out of the city and hit the highway and gain speed.
NH7
in Andhra Pradesh was in good shape, and all along allowed me decent speeds
without any major slowdowns. But the day was hot, and hence the ride was a
difficult on this day. The distance was also more - some 575 kilometers from
Hyderabad to Bangalore. Every hour or so I halted at some stall for cool drinks
or water, to keep myself and the bike cool. Thus riding in a halt and proceed
manner, the day was seen through, and towards evening, after 5pm, the road left
Andhra Pradesh and entered Karnataka. It drizzled a little, and became dark,
and I had to slow down, as I reached ChikBallapur.
Passing ChikBallapur, a slow
and careful ride, and then entered Bangalore. Thereafter reached my home in Cox
Town at 9pm. At home, I was told that Kamlesh had called up just 5 minutes back
to know if I've reached Bangalore safely.
Conclusion
I started the tour confident that it will be a
success. Success means adhering to the schedule, enjoying through the tour, and
reaching back home safely. All through the tour there was always the
possibility of something going wrong - a flat tyre, a mishap, illness, strain,
bike breakdown, ugly incidents, etc. But I consider myself very fortunate to
have been protected from all these, and enabled to return home on my own feet.
Travelling
is a passion for me - I am sure everyone has their own passions - and traveling
in such a fashion, I have come to like my nation and its people a lot. I also
feel that India continues to possess the large hearted sons of the soil still
in its rural and remote places, where the so called 'civilization' hasn't had
much impact. It is in the much populated cities and town, where civilization
and westernization have strongholds, that the minds of some men seem to be
corrupted, and money, the prime concern. Apart from this small population,
India is full of men who continue to live a content life, and do their own
small part to make of India a great nation that it is. From Kashmir to
Kanyakumari, from Gujarat to Assam, throughout her length and breadth, to me,
India is the best. After all, every man is proud of his homeland.
Like
the boy in Andhra Pradesh who very proudly said he belonged to Mahboob Nagar
and showed me my way South, like the tribals in Madhya Pradesh's forests who
are proud of their land and the forests, like the tribal assistants of Kamlesh
who daily put their lives in danger while trying to locate tigers for the
visiting tourists to enjoy, like Kamlesh who considers the forest as his home
and lives away from his family mostly to guard the game of Pench, in the
footsteps of his father - George Washington - who served the MP Forest Dept for
a long time, like the farmer and his acquaintances who sat near to and chatted
very kindly with me while I rested on the wayside, in Andhra Pradesh. I am
happy that I had the opportunity to meet these people, and will remember them
for a long time to come.
If
asked which sections of the tour I enjoyed most, I would say the ride through
the Shiradi Ghat in heavy pouring rain, the ride up the west coast, the visit
to Jog Falls, misty, wet Amboli, the smooth tunnel ride before Pune, the
forested Pune University campus, the beautiful waves of Miramar beach at
Panaji, the interaction with the research student at Kharmajhiri and learning
much about wildlife and management, stalking of the chitals inside Pench, the 8th
day morning ride inside the Pench NP from Kharmajhiri to Turia gate, the
company of Kamlesh, the touring of the park, boat camp, fishing in Pench river
and the flag hoisting ceremony with the MP Forest Department staff were all
very enjoyable and memorable ones.
As
for the road sense and traffic in Indian Highways, I feel the scene continues
to remain bad. Motorists continue to ignore lane discipline, cattle still sleep
on highways, pedestrians cross the highway as if going from one room to other
inside their house, local sand and water laden trucks shuttling between towns
continue to threaten other road users' lives, and sudden bad roads, unwarned
road humps, signs warning of road humps but without any humps in sight, bullock
carts in the dark without any reflectors in the middle of the road, etc
continue to be great dangers on the highway. The 4 laning of the highways, when
complete, shows promise of reducing - if not avoiding - all these risks. A vast
majority of the truckers are very good drivers, and are no problem at all on
the highways. They have tremendous lane discipline, drive in constant speeds,
keep to their left, show signals and are generally far better than city
drivers.After all, they put their
lives at stake on the numerous highways throughout our country everyday.
Apart
from the risks on road, another discomfort was the embarrassment that resulted
from the attention paid to me, wherever I halted or stopped for tea. People
just stared at me, the baggage and the bike, and at some places, young men came
up to put up a talk, and know where I am from, and what my destination is. Shock,
surprise, admiration, doubt were all expressed when truth was told.
I
should also mention that while I expected this tour to wear me out and make me
tired of riding, it had the opposite effect on me, and I am looking forward to
more longer trips to other not-yet-visited parts of India. More to come, as
time, money, health and God permit.
Acknowledgements
I thank my friends and acquaintances, who, in various
ways, helped in making the tour enjoyable and successful.
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