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Two Day Bike Trip - Kabini, Karapura, Wynad, Bandipur - 29, 30 Mar 2003

The whole of February 2003, a bacterial infection on my right leg kept me down, and prevented me from venturing into the forests. In March, work and other engagements kept me away, and this in turn made me increasingly restless. By the end of March, I was very restless, and just wanted to get out of it all. The city is sick, and the people are sicker. On March 28th Friday,, I desperately tried to find out some trekking programme. But the only one that I found was already full. Not ready to get disappointed, I decided to bike out to Bandipur, for the next two days.

My intended plan was to visit the Kabini dam, which I thought was in deep forests, and then visit Karapura Jungle Lodges and Resorts run by a Govt. of India's affiliate, and then through Kerala, return to Masinagudi, stay for the Saturday night, and then roam around at Mudumalai and Bandipur on Sunday, and return to Bangalore by Sunday night. How it all turned out to be a totally different experience, I'll try to explain as best as I can, in the following paragraphs.

I had filled up fuel for the bike on the previous day (28th), and on 29th, Saturday, I left Bangalore at 7.45AM. The weather was pleasant, and the ride was a sheer thrill. The Bangalore Mysore highway is a treacherous one, with its numerous gradient landscapes and unwarned road humps. However, I being a bit used to this stretch, didn't find any difficulty in reaching Mysore in around two and half hours. Inbetween, breakfast was had at Ramanagaram. To reach the Kabini dam, from Mysore, one has to take the Hampapura, HD Kote road. There is another route too, through the Mysore-Ooty highway up to Begur, and then a right turn, through Nugu reservoir, through Beetwal, Sargur, and join the Mysore - Mannanthavaadi road. Though it is a bit longer, I decided to take this familiar road. This was the first foolishness of the day. The ride up to Begur was a breeze. A little before Begur, a right turn is taken. The roads are worse here, and speeds above 30kmph will give rough continuous jolts to both the bike and the rider. After an hour or so, I reached the Nugu reservoir. This small dam is built across the Nugu River, which joins the Kabini eventually. Contrary to be expectation that these places were inside dense forest, I found that these were human inhabited areas, with many villages dotting the landscape. Lunch was had at a small hotel at Sargur town. 5kms from Sargur, the road at last joined the Mysore - Mannanthavaadi road which I thought would be in a better shape. But, alas, that road was also in a bad, not better, state. This junction is called Handpost, and had a few shops and a petrol pump. Cursing the government and the politicians of the area, I took the left turn, and continued on my way. En route, the road forks into two. The right fork goes to Mannathavady, 58 kms away, while the left fork goes to Kabini dam, 15kms away. The road to Kabini dam was well laid, and allowed speeds of up to 80kmph. It is understandable, since the politicians and top brass officials might visit the dam often, the roads are in good shape, while the roads used daily by the common man is in tatters.

Kabini dam was massive, and a great sight. This too, contrary to my expectations, was not amidst forests, but rather, was surrounded by villages, residences, and well-paved roads around the dam. The water level was low, and some water was being let out to Tamilnadu. There was a park at the dam site, and a family was happily picnicking. I spent a good hour atop the dam, for the wind was pleasant, and the view was great. Far way, across the waters, the jungles stretched out, where the mighty tigers roam, where the wild things are, where I'd love to be. So, bidding adieu to the watchman with whom I was chatting, I left the dam, and soon reached the fork. Took the left turn, and continued on my way towards Karapura jungles. En route, stopped at a village called Antharasanthe for a bottle of chilled water, at a bakery, since the weather was getting a little hot. It was around 3pm by now. Passing Antharasanthe, the road enters Rajiv Gandhi National Park, more popularly known as Nagarhole Tiger Reserve. We're now at the eastern fringes of the park. Moving on, I saw a small hut, and three forest guards smoking. I drew up to them for a little chat. They claimed to have seen tigers often, and also warned me to be wary of elephants on the road, in the evening. One of them asked for a lift up to Karapura. Together, we went on, chatting. A few kilometers ahead, the road took a left turn for Karapura. I dropped him at Karapura, and also visited the Jungle Lodges and Resorts, run by an affiliate of the Indian Government. They provide luxurious cottages and rooms, in the midst of wilderness, and conduct coracle rides, elephant, and jeep safaris. A day's stay will cost around 2500 Rupees per person. Provided one has the money, a great time could be had here, with the expert guides and drivers available. Continuing on my way, I joined the main road, and proceeded further.

A few kilometers up, a forest check post was on the way. A few tribal huts dotted the place. I passed them, and continued. I would have gone a couple of kilometers, when my nightmare began. The back wheel was flat! It was exactly 4pm. Here I was, in the midst of tiger and elephant country, stranded, and the night approaching. Antharasanthe was 20km behind me, and the next village - Bavali - was 16km ahead. At the moment, I wasn't very disappointed or upset, and didn't see any danger or risk. I chalked out the plan - to remove the wheel, and wait for a vehicle to pass by, and ask for a drop to the nearest mechanic shop. And then return by some other passing vehicle, and fix the wheel, and get going, before the night falls. But it was not as I expected. This area is remote, and in deep forest. The roads are also very bad. Therefore, the traffic was nil. Not a human was in sight, and no vehicle came by for a long time. It was 4.30pm now. A few monkeys came by, and settled next to me, watching. I had by now managed to remove the wheel, after some struggle. Thankfully, the tools that I carried came in handy. Still no vehicle in sight, I sat on the road, listening to all the jungle sounds and keeping an eye out for elephants. A few deer appeared from the thickets onto the road, and after getting surprised by my presence, bolted away. It was 4.45pm now, and still no vehicle in sight. Now, I started thinking of the next plan. If no vehicle came by, I decided to hide the bike inside the thickets, climb up one of the trees, and settle down for the night. As I was thinking about this strategy, the welcome sound of a vehicle greeted me. A mobile medical van - tempo traveler - approached from the opposite side. I stopped them, and the driver was kind enough to take me in. But he said it was very dangerous to leave the bike like that there. Any passing truck could take the bike with them, or the elephants might trample it. So, reaching the checkpost, we requested a few tribal boys to stay with the bike, while I got the puncture set right at Antharasanthe, and return. After some initial hesitation, the boys agreed, and went towards the bike. Now we proceeded on our way to Antharasanthe. Now it was the turn of the driver and the nurse to frighten me, by highlighting out in how dangerous a situation I was in. Fear kept crawling in, for I didn't want to lose my bike. They dropped me at a mechanic shop at Antharasanthe, and after giving me his hospital phone number, the driver went on his way towards Sargur, which I had passed earlier in the day. A small, lively boy was in the mechanic shop, and he immediately realizing my situation, set about repairing the wheel. Now, to my horror, we realized that two of the rubber pads in the wheel hub had fallen into the van, and the van had left. Without these rubbers, the wheel cannot be fit back into the bike.

I called up the hospital number, which the driver had given me. The guy there said they hadn't reached yet, and thankfully, he connected to the van through wireless. The van driver informed him that he would give the rubber pads to a petrol pump guy at Handpost, and leave. Hence, I immediately boarded a jeep that shuttles between Handpost and Antharasanthe, and after one hour, returned with the rubber pads to Antharasanthe. The little boy had fixed the wheel by now, and was waiting for me. It was past 7 now, and dark. My worst fears had come true, and I was wondering what would have happened to the bike by now, as I waited for some passing vehicle. However, for sometime, no vehicle went beyond Antharasanthe. It was understandable - with elephants possibly on the road, who would risk going through this road, unless very necessary. I was standing on the road, when the bakery guy - a malayali, from whom I had purchased the bottled water earlier in the day - saw me. He enquired, and was surprised and worried about my situation. He was kind enough, and took me to his bakery. He then pondered about this, then asked his friend to stop any trucks that pass. However no trucks passed for quit sometime. Then his friend, a malayali too, went to find someone who could help. He came back hurriedly, and said a pickup truck bound for Kerala was ready to leave, and I can go in that. I thanked these guys heartily, and boarded the pickup truck. The driver of that pickup was a malayali too, and I looked at him as the savior from nowhere. The pickup was carrying a huge load of vegetables or something, and was bound for Kerala. He was alone, and proceeding into this jungle, and I was amazed at his guts. However, he reassured that the elephants mostly do not mean any harm, except in the case of a tusker or a mother elephant with calves. The nurse in the van that earlier gave me a lift, and later the malayali bakery guy, had made my nerves weak, by repeatedly talking about rogue elephants on the road that could cause havoc. Though initially I wasn't frightened or afraid, by now I was terrified, and imagining all sorts of things. The bakery guy had also said that the tribal boys would have left long before, and nobody would have the guts to stay there with the bike. This was also worrying me.

The pickup driver was burly, and a man of few words. He had to bribe twice, first at the police station at Antharasanthe, then at the check post inside the Tiger Reserve. The ride was slow, and silent. It was almost like a night safari, for me. After the check post, I looked out for the bike, and lo, and behold! I could see the reflection of my bike's rear number plate, in the dark - but a little distance before where I had left it. We drew up to the bike, and to my surprise, found the tribal boys, along with a few more guys, were guarding my bike with a small fire. They had obviously carried the bike, weighing a good 140 kg, without a back wheel, and front handlebar locked, a good 2 kilometers, through the jungle, nearer to their huts! I tried to pay the pickup driver, but he staunchly refused, and left. A man of ordinary means, earning his bread the hard way, shuttling inside forests, he will remain high in my memory, for a long time to come. Time and again, in dangerous situations, under hostile surroundings, such saviors appear suddenly, to guard one to safety, and then disappear immediately thereafter. Once previously, a lonely black dog appeared out of nowhere, to be with me through a 20km solo trek through jungles. I attribute this, very strongly, to divine help from above.

The tribal boys lit up a bigger fire, and in that light, I set about fitting back the wheel. It took a good 20 minutes, and I was finally able to set everything right. I paid up a decent amount to the boys, and after thanking them, proceeded on my way towards Bavali, 18kms away. The road worsened, and speeds above 20kmph were not possible. Only gutters, and more gutters. A wild hare, some deer crossed the road at some points. The road was very broken, and I did a slow ride, the fear of an elephant appearing suddenly, looming large in my mind. However, the steely nerve kept, and I reached Bavali sometime later. Passing Bavali, the road crossed into the state of Kerala. 10kms before Mananthavaadi, I stopped at a small hotel, and had a few chapathis and fish curry. Proceeding on, I reached Mananthavaadi at 11pm. It was a small sleepy town, and not many were on the road. I checked in to a hotel for a fee of Rs.180, and collapsed for a sound sleep.

The next day, I checked out at around 7AM. My plan for the day was to go to Bandipur, spend time there, and then return to Bangalore. The route was through NH 212, passing through Kalpetta, Sultan Bathery and Gundlupet. Riding through the countryside of Kerala was very pleasant. The roads were reasonably good, allowing a decent 60kmph. The whole of this stretch was dotted with localities, and most people on the road couldn't resist staring at a guy in dirty clothes, with a haversack and a helmet, passing by. The roads were well marked, and the signage was very good. The Kerala tourism department had put up signposts, and distance charts at many places, providing any traveler with clear information. Riding at a decent speed, I crossed Kalpetta, Bathery. The road then passes through the Wayanad wildlife sanctuary. The sanctuary was full of evergreen forests, and it was a great sight to look at. Full of open grasslands, bamboo thickets, and evergreen trees, it was a rejuvenating experience. The road then passed through Muthanga Sanctuary, which recently was in the news, because of a clash between the police and the illegal tribal occupants of the sanctuary. After Muthanga, the state of Kerala ends, and enters Karnataka. The roads at this point were very good, and smooth. Traffic was very thin. This region falls under the Bandipur National Park. Entering the park, the road again worsens, and progress becomes slow. This side of the park was greener than the southern parts adjoining the Mysore - Ooty highway.

I did a very slow ride, stopping at many places, to have a good look at the landscape. A sambhar here, some spotted deer there, and a langur hurriedly crossing my path just a few feet ahead, the forest was full of life. Life, in all its abundance, that could hardly be witnessed in human populated regions. Not many vehicles passed by. The temptation to park the bike behind some trees and trek into the park was too much, but however, I restrained from doing such a thing like I did last year. Eventually, the road came out of the woods, and went on to Gundlupet, on the Mysore - Ooty highway. Reaching Gundlupet, I took a right turn towards Hangala and Bandipur National Park's main entrance. Enter Bandipur National Park, one of the first tiger reserves of the country, established in 1974, and today home to approximately 90 tigers. It is here, that my utmost quest lies - to see and relish, an encounter with a tiger in the park. Again, the temptation to wander into the side paths that led to deeper jungle, and again I had to resist it, with much effort. I kept roaming up and down the road. Some vehicles stopped by, to feed the deer on the roadside with breadcrumbs. The park has been closed for tourists, since it is summer time, and the foliage is dry. A small mistake, and a huge forest fire could start raging. Hence, trekking, safaris and other activities have been curbed for a few months. It is tough time for the animals, because the foliage is dry, the elephants do not have much to eat. Because the water resources are low, it is not enough for all the animals. The tigers will also swelter under the heat. However, it was not very hot today, and indeed was pleasant enough. I stopped by, to watch a tame tusker graze. A Gypsy vehicle was also standing by, watching it. An old man was at the wheel, and two very young boys were enjoying it all. I had a talk with the man, Mr. Loganathan, and came to know that the Range officer was his friend/relative, so they used to come here often, and venture into core areas of the park time and again. I also envied them very much, when he said that the previous day, they witnessed a huge tiger inside the park, resting on the path itself after a heavy meal. When these guys approached, the tiger had lifted its head to stare at them, and had then, indifferently, continued to sleep. These guys have watched it for a good 45 minutes. From their description, I could imagine how huge the tiger could have been, and how thrilling it would have been. Imagining this itself, was thrilling enough for me. Loganathan also invited me for another venture into the core areas, in April. I promised him that I would contact him at Bangalore, and after procuring his telephone number, proceeded on my way. My next plan was to visit the Mysore zoo, and then after spending the afternoon there, move on to Bangalore. Riding at a good speed, I reached Mysore at around noon.

The afternoon was spent at the Mysore zoo, watching the various animal species. The Mysore zoological gardens are very well maintained, and deserve appreciation. Thereafter, I left Mysore at 4.15pm. The traffic was very thick, and the ride was fast. After 2 hours and 15 minutes of continuous ride, except for a pit stop for refueling, I reached the crowded and polluted Bangalore at 7.30PM. And that is the end of this piece of roaming, and more to come, if I manage to join Loganathan in April.

The Route:
Bangalore - 140kms - Mysore - 45kms - Begur - 45kms - Handpost - 10kms - Antharasanthe - 50kms - Mannanthavaadi - ~40kms - Kalpetta - ~40kms - Sultan Bathery - ~50kms - Gundlupet - 25kms - Bandipur - 25kms - Gundlupet - 60kms - Mysore - 140kms - Bangalore