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Weekend Trek at Cauvery Valley WLS - 19, 20 Jul 2003

Sangam is the place where the great Cauvery and her tributary, the Arakavathi river come together. The popular picnic spot - Mekedatu - is also situated 4 km from here. From Sangam, a mud track goes west, roughly 20km to Muthathi, another small picnic spot on the banks of Cauvery. This 20km stretch runs parallel to Cauvery - flowing west to east - close to the bank at some places, and on the shoulder of hills at other places. On either side of the Cauvery occur densely forested hills that vary from 3000 to 4000 ft in height, and she forms picturesque valleys amidst these hills. The river bed here is a mixture of rocks and sandy stretches, and the waters abound in game fish like Mahseer. The forests are home to a variety of wildlife, and is a core habitat of wild Asiatic elephants. The whole region is known as the Cauvery Wildlife Sanctuary. There is no human habitation on the trek route, except for an Ashram of World Peace Center immediately after Sangam, and the Cauvery Fishing Camp, Galibore, 9km from Sangam. This whole stretch of Cauvery for some 30kms has been leased out to Jungle Lodges and Resorts(JLR) by the Indian Government. JLR runs two fishing camps in the area, one at Galibore and another at Bheemeshwari. Foreigners are the major guests, and fishing for Mahseer is the most sought after sport here.

On this my second trip too, I biked up to Sangam from Bangalore, a distance of 95 kms through NH209 up to Kanakapura(55kms), and then through village roads up to Sangam. The trek commenced at around 9AM; walking in a relaxed manner, observing everything around, watching birds and identifying them with Salim Ali's book, time flew. At 11AM, I left the track to get to the river for water. Maneuvering through the thickets and bushes, I came on to the river bank, and was very happy to see a herd of elephants on the other side of the bank, leisurely having a drink. The herd was complete with tuskers, a calf and cows. Luckily I had my binoculars with me, and spent some 45 minutes watching the jumbos, as they played with each other, surfed the waters and sprinkled mud on to themselves. The distance across the river was a little more than 100 meters; so there wasn't any risk, but I had to keep an eye out for other elephants on my side of the river, for the jungles were thick enough. When the elephants had finished, they slowly ambled up and into the thickets on the foothills on that side of the river, and I rejoined the track to continue on my way. A little later I passed Galibore; there seemed to be no guests now, and I guess that is because there isn't much water in Cauvery, and more importantly, the latest news that Veerappan is in the area.

Past Galibore, again I left the track for the river, and pleasantly spent some time watching a brahminy kite trying to fish, and other birds. Thereafter I reached Muthathi at half past 2, and after lunching there, returned. At one point, I decided to spend the night on the rocks in the middle of the river, close to where I had spent another frightful night several months back. I crossed the river as far as the rocks permitted, and found a place which was even enough. The sun was going down beyond the hills in the west, and was casting a wonderful glow on the clouds. It showered lightly and thereafter the sky was clear. The place was great, in the midst of the river, with waters gushing around, and forested hills towering on both sides. It became dark at 7.15PM, and a little later, to my horror, the water level in the river started increasing, but before I realized, one of my shoes was swept away. Nothing could be done, and I sat there worrying and regretting my decision to remain on the rocks, instead of sleeping on the bank or on a tree. Another fear was crocodiles, for a board at Sangam warned tourists of crocodiles and swirls during the monsoon.

The various fears that assail a human being, when alone in a jungle, need to be experienced to be understood. The moon rose above the hills in the east at 1AM, casting the world around me with brilliant light, and easing my fears. Thereafter, I drifted in and out of sleep, and at 6AM, the new day was born. Every bird was singing its welcome to the newborn day, and the atmosphere was splendid. I tried searching for the lost shoe, with a hope that it is washed ashore somewhere, but in vain. Slowly I commenced the walk back on barefoot, which proved to be more painful with each passing mile. After 10kms, at Galibore camp, a village boy joined me, and very thankfully lent me his slippers. Thereafter, we did a stiff and fast march. A little before Sangam, we met three fully equipped commandos from the Karnataka Special Task Force(set up to nab elusive Veerappan). They were tall, well built, dressed in camouflages, armed with AK47 assault rifles, and posed a mean appearance. Contrary to their looks, one of them was friendly, and I had a little chat with them. They seemed to be in good spirits, though the day was hot, and they had a special task at hand that will demand every ounce of their energy. I believe they are on their way into the jungles. I wished them the very best, and we parted our ways - one, a tired and weary man eager to get home and to soft beds and good food, while the other, in high spirits and in pursuit of one of the most notorious criminals India has ever known of, and who has managed to evade the forces for over two decades, and who is at home in the South Indian jungles.

A little later we reached Sangam, and after dropping my friend the boy at Kanakapura at his request, I reached Bangalore a little past 2PM.

Birds Seen & Identified:

  1. Black and Ashy Drongos
  2. Beeaters(green colored)
  3. Brahminy Kite
  4. Common & Jungle Myna

Animals:

  1. Elephant herd - herd of 10 with tuskers and calves
  2. Jackals
  3. Buffaloes (wild?)
  4. Giant Squirrels(not Malabar; unable to identify) (later identified by a gentleman at BNGBIRDS as Grizzly Giant Squirrel)