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12 Days on The Road - 3000km Bike Trip to Kumaon Last year's road trip to Madhya Pradesh was a memorable one, and I had then decided to do another road trip to another place in 2004. Jim Corbett - legendary hunter and naturalist - is my all-time hero and and I've long wished to see the jungles he hunted in, and the forests around his home at Kaladhungi and Nainital, then in United Provinces and now in Uttaranchal state of India. I also thought of going around Kumaon and Garhwal as time permitted, once I reached Nainital. Preparations were begun, and I fixed 31st July as my starting day from Bangalore. I applied for a two week leave in office, booked a room in the tourist bungalow at Kaladhungi - Corbett's winter home, serviced the bike, bought a saddle bag, and tried to inform my friend Kamalesh Washington - Game guard of Pench Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh - of my plan to halt a day at Pench, as last year, on my way to Kaladhungi. For certain reasons, my leave wasn't sanctioned, thoroughly spoiling my plans and disappointing me. In a spur, I picked up the tent and went to the Western Ghats, and spent the weekend there. The weekend away gave me back my lost hope, and the next week, I kept my fingers crosed, as I finished off whatever work was left pending. Things fell in place finally, the leave was sanctioned on 6th August, but only for one week and 3 days; I was expected to be back in office on 19th, Thursday. It was a coincidence that, as last year's trip started on 7th August, this year too it was 7th August. I took it to be some sort of unseen guidance.
The route plan was: This was the schedule. I booked the tourist rest house at Kaladhungi for the 12th night, by phone from Bangalore, and also booked a New Delhi to Bangalore rail ticket for the 16th. Plans a many we make, but not all work out exactly. I started, as scheduled, from Bangalore on the 7th, but what happened in the next 12 days was a bit different from what I had planned.
At 6.30 AM, I left Bangalore, taking with me the good wishes of friends and well wishers. As Bangalore was awakening, I rode out of it, hit the outer ring road, and passing the Hebbal flyover, gained speed, and was on my way. Due to the monsoon season, the weather was cool and pleasant, though quite windy. National Highway 7 is a pleasure to ride. It is our longest highway, some 2500 kms, stretching from Kanyakumari in Tamilnadu upto Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. In her long course, she passes through some very picturseque landscape in many places, and also the roads are very good, with six lanes near some cities. Traffic isn't heavy in longer stretches, and one can relax and enjoy the passing scenery, without much need to concentrate on the traffic or the road. Some 100 kilometers later, the highway leaves Karnataka state and enters into the state of Andhra Pradesh. A nice breakfast of pooris and coffee, and a little break to enjoy the morning, and we get back to the road again, for we have a long way to go today to reach Hyderabad before dusk. If you go through Andhra Pradesh in the summer months, you will have some idea of what "sun-scorched plains of India" means. But today is a pleasant day in August, in a year when the monsoon has been reasonably good. The sun isn't hot, but cast over by intermittent clouds, and the wind is quite strong. The vast fields on both sides of the road stretch into the horizon, there are a variety of birds to be seen, especially cattle egrets, numbering hundreds, in the fields and pestering around grazing cattle. Wherever you look, it is green and pleasant. Some distance before Kurnool, there is little bandobust by the Andhra Pradesh police, as we pass a couple of police checkposts without being stopped, though stared at. The policemen might've had second thoughts to stop us, but before they could decide, at our speed of 80 to 90kmph, we zoom past. Not all policemen are like that, and we are promptly stopped at one of the checkposts, where we had to slow down for an oncoming truck. Gun touting khakhi men check my baggage, and I learn from them that a local body election is in progress, and hence the security. We're soon let to pass, and we're back on the road, speeding towards Kurnool. It is lunchtime, and we are passing Kurnool bye pass. After Kurnool, there is a beautiful restaurant adjoining a petrol pump. No one is at the restaurant, except for the waiters. A relaxed and sumptous lunch in Andhra style cools us, for it is a little hot by now. Another long and fast ride, without many breaks, - except for one break when I stop to watch a black shouldered kite perched on an electric wire - and we touch the outskirts of Hyderabad at 5.30pm. It takes some time to find a good hotel, and after an hour of swimming through the city traffic and dust, we find Tara International, to roost for the night. Today, I remember seeing
DAY 2: Hyderabad to Pench Tiger Reserve - Roughly 550 Kilometers Yesterday, I tried to contact Kamalesh Washington of Pench Tiger Reserve, since my accommodation wasn't clear at Pench. I hadn't booked a rest house at Kharmajhiri inside the park, hoping that I can spend a day with Kamalesh at Turia Gate. But unfortunately this year he has been moved to another camp - Alikatta - and I am unable to communicate with him. So our accommodation for tonight is not clear at the moment, and we will have to reach Khawasa - where the forest office is - to find out where we'll stay for the night, and if we can spend tomorrow inside Pench. If talking to Kamalesh isn't possible, then we have to ask for accommodation at Kharmajhiri, a rest house complex in the boundaries of the park where I spent two days during last year's trip. Hoping to reach Khawasa as early as possible, we make an early start from Hyderabad at 6.45AM. Starting early has an advantage - there is no city traffic and one can very easily get out of the city and gain the highway. Again we sail down NH 7, the roads being smooth and neat, allowing 90kmph easily. Occasionally we also see 100 or 110kmph on downgrades, for there are some beautiful hills in the northern part of Andhra Pradesh. For the most part the road goes through beautiful green forests and hilly terrain, with easy gradients and smooth curves. If yesterday we passed through vast agricultural fields stretching to the horizon, today we pass through more or less dense forests and small hills, where the road is sometimes populated with Bonnet Macaques that look at us earnestly. Many thousands of kilometers on highways has engendered me with some level of confidence, and has made riding on highways, where roads are good, a simple and enjoyable matter not necessitating my full concentration and which allows myself to watch everything around, while at the same time avoiding risky situations and covering distances. I guess this is the same with anyone who traverses highways frequently. After Adilabad, before we know we are in the state of Maharashtra, and approaching Nagpur. We pass Nagpur at around 4pm. So far we have had some very good riding, and covered distances smoothly and effortlessly. Our luck with the monsoon was also good - not a drop from the sky fell on us. But it cannot be like that always. Past Nagpur, the roads are wet, and as we continue, it starts drizzling very slightly. We change to some waterproof jacket, and proceed. Some 80 kilometers past Nagpur, the road leaves the state of Maharashtra, and enters Madhya Pradesh. Two short kilometers past this state border is our destination of the day, Khawasa village. At Khawasa I tried talking to the men at the forest office; but they said it it not possible to talk to Kamalesh. Ok, then I ask for accommodation at Kharmajhiri. A wireless message is sent to Kharmajhiri, and the man at the other end says the park is closed and accommodation will not be given. But I know that the park is closed, and I also know that accommodation is given at Kharmajhiri. But arguing with them is of no avail, I should've booked a rest house from Bangalore itself. I am told to proceed 20kms further on the highway to Rukkad village, where a forest rest house and a government-run resort is available, where I can stay. By now it is 7pm and dark, and I do the next 20kms with headlights on. At Rukkad, we get a forest rest house annexe to spend the night. Food is made to order at rest houses, and I ask for rotis. Rotis of Madhya Pradesh are the best rotis I've ever tasted. A quiet supper at the Bison retreat gives body and soul some rest. The highway here passes through the Pench Tiger Reserve, and on both sides of the road is more or less dense forest, with a village or two here and there. After supper, we turn in for the night. There is no one at the rest house, and the place is deafeningly silent. DAY 3: Rukkad, Pench TR to Sagar - Roughly 300 kilometers Since we couldn't procure accommodation at Kharmajhiri, in which case we could've spent the day roaming in the jungles around the rest house, we will proceed on our way to Jhansi. By far, NH 7 had been our good companion all along, but todday, after we pass Seoni, at a junction called Lakhnadon, we have to leave our friend the National Highway 7, and take NH 26 and proceed straight north through Sagar to Jhansi. Since we do not have a long distance to do today, as we had in the last two days, and since there are a lot of birds around the rest house we are put up in, I decide to spend some time to try to shoot the birds. There were mynas, flameback woodpeckers, drongos, doves, parakeets on the trees nearby, and I had some nice time watching and trying to shoot them. Our breakfast is ready by now, and after the breakfast, we start on our day's journey at 9.15AM, after thanking and bidding adieu to the chowkidar.
A little later the highway takes us around Seoni bye
Convincing myself that the road should get better soon, I continue along NH 26, only to be received by more and more pothole ridden roads. With a never diminishing hope that the road will get better at some point, the journey continues slowly, but the road just remains the same - broken, ugly, slushy at some places, and flooded at other places. While we had cruised at 90kmph on NH 7, we were now crawling at 20 or 30kmph, getting in and out of potholes, and holding on to the bike. If we increase the speed, we only end up jerking ourselves and the bike. So slowly we continue, blaming ourself for taking this highway. With many breaks to ease the soarness, we count the kilometers, and then by afternoon realised that Jhansi is not within our reach today. So We will halt at Sagar today, and hope to get to Agra by tomorrow, expecting better roads. Even though the roads were worse, the country we pass through is very beautiful, and somewhat compensates for the pain we are suffering at the moment. Madhya Pradesh has some of the best forests in India. We also see the conditions the rural people are living in, and wonder what the Government is doing. We reach Sagar at last, as the sun is setting, dog tired to the bone, and soar at many places. Found a decent enough hotel for the night, and went to bed early. Apart from the usual birds to be seen, today I also remember seeing
DAY 4: Sagar, Madhya Pradesh to Agra, Uttar Pradesh - Roughly 300 kilometers Had broken roads not taken us by surprise, we would've reached Jhansi yesterday itself, and would have had only some 200kms for today. But, we are still at Sagar, and Agra, our day's destination, is still far away. So, with high hopes that the roads will get better, we start from Sagar at 6.30AM. The roads are not as bad as they were yesterday, but still not the best, and allow 40 or 50kmph without much jerks. But today our enemy is the weather. It starts drizzling, then rains, and then pours heavily. We try to wait under trees, but the rain seems to be never ending; so I decide to get wet, and off we go in pouring rain, and enter Jhansi, soaking wet. Fortunately our baggage is quite water proof, so we don't have to worry. The only worry is the wet shoes, which might not dry overnight, and is a discomfort to wear. Prolonged exposure to discomfort, stress and strain, diminishes one's enthusiasm and grit to a great extent. Concentration also suffers in the run. When man and machine are put to such rigorous drills, a feeling of mutual relationship develops, and one engenders the other with confidence and willpower, that the other might lack. And thus, with a mutual respect for each other's strengths and an understanding of each other's weaknesses, it becomes possible to endure, for long periods, without buckling. And at the end of the road, when the worst is behind and seen through, both pat each other, and move ahead, with a smile. Somewhere before Lalitpur, we leave green Madhya Pradesh and enter a much
crowded Uttar Pradesh.
We reach Agra by around 5pm. Agra is yet another crowdy, ugly town, like Gwalior. There are a host of good hotels around, and hence we don't have much trouble finding one. As we have toiled for four days continuously, the last two days being very strenous for both myself and the bike, I decide to stay in Agra tonight, tomorrow and tomorrow night, and as the sun rises day after tomorrow, we will take on our final leg of the journey, to Kaladhungi, Uttaranchal. Apart from the regular birds to be seen, today's highlight was the Egyptian Vultures. DAY 5: Lazing around at Agra. Rest Day. Since we are at the famous town of Agra today, let us visit the Taj Mahal. At 7AM, I go to Taj Mahal. For some reason, our tripod is not allowed inside, and I leave the tripod in the cloak room. Taj Mahal was indeed huge and beautiful.
There are Rose Ringed Parakeets, Indian Treepies, Babblers, Coucals, Vultures, a lone Cattle Egret, Peacocks, Palm Squirrels, Rhesus Macaques, Starlings, Mynas and Red Vented Bulbuls. For the next 3 hours I have a field day shooting these birds, and before I know, it is 10AM, and getting hot. Time to leave. Back at the hotel, we check out, since I'm not very satisfied with this hotel, and check in to another hotel that I'd seen near the Taj Mahal. Now, another schedule change. Originally I had only 2 days to spend around Nainital. Now I decide to extend it by two more days. So let us postpone our train ticket from Delhi from 16th to 18th. That would give us more time to enjoy Uttaranchal. So I go to the railway station at Agra, postpone my ticket. Then I take the bike to a Hero Honda service center. The bike looks very ugly, with a thick coat of mud and dust, almost making the number plates invisible. Badly requires a wash. So I tell them to give a thorough water wash, clean the drive chain and lubricate it, and also clean the air filter and carburettor. Leaving the bike with them, I walk into a nearby restaurant - Dasaprakash, south Indian restaurant, for a sumptous south Indian meal of Rice, Sambar and Curd, after days of rotis and sabjis. Yummmmm. After lunch, I walk back to the service center, wait and collect the bike - now looking fresh and clean - and get back to the hotel for a siesta. It is 4pm by now, and a few hours later, as the sun is setting, I go to Pizza Hut, that I'd seen earlier, for a tasty dinner. After dinner, some browsing at a internet cafe, and then we're back in our hotel room, for a good sleep. Tomorrow at sunrise we will leave Agra and head for Corbett's village, Kaladhungi. DAY 6: Agra, Uttar Pradesh to Kaladhungi, Nainital District, Uttaranchal - Roughly 350 kilometers Today, let us do the final leg of our journey to Uttaranchal. The day's destination is Kaladhungi, Corbett's winter home, at the Himalayan foothills, in Nainital district. We have a tourist bungalow booked for the night, so accommodation isn't a worry today. Leaving Agra at 7AM, we pass through some rural Uttar Pradesh on our way to Bareilly. Some towns, like Etah, Kasganj were really very very ugly. Sewage was on the road, the road was pot hole ridden, pigs and donkeys lived on the road, making a very ugly sight. I do not know whom to blame. Near Etah, I'm fortunate to see a Sarus crane for the first time.
I break for sometime to shoot it.
It is not the same village that Corbett left, when leaving India for Africa after India's Independence. Kaladhungi is now a small town. But past this town, is the original Kaladhungi, on the Ramnagar road. At a junction on the road, where a branch to the right goes to the hill station of Nainital, and the road ahead goes to Ramnagar, is Jim Corbett's winter home, now a museum. We ask for the dak bungalow, and are directed to the rest house, where the chowkidar welcomes us. Not many are on the road, and this side of Kaladhungi remains silent, except for the bird calls. We cannot visit the museum, Corbett's home, today, since it is past 5pm. So we will spend the evening at the Boar bridge, across the Boar river, that Corbett very often mentions, in his book 'Jungle Lore'. I take 'Jungle Lore' book that I'd brought with me, and walk to the Boar bridge, on the Ramnagar road, a little past Kaladhungi, and sit down on the low side wall near the bridge. Corbett begins 'Jungle Lore' in this setting - one evening, as a boy he with his brothers and sisters, lighting a fire in the middle of the road sit around to listen to the ghost stories of Dansay, as an old horned fish owl hoots from a Haldu tree on the banks of the Boar river. I can only say that I was very glad that evening to be there, and listen to the birds around, as the sun set, at Kaladhungi, Corbett's home, where he had trodden for the most part of his life. Tomorrow morning, we will visit Corbett's home, now a museum. DAY 7: Kaladhungi to Nainital - Roughly 40kms Today morning the chowkidar's friend took me on an hour's excursion into the forests behind Kaladhungi. These forests aren't protected area, and one can wander as much as he pleases. Birds were plenty, and I also noticed tracks of Sambar, Chital, and a leopard's pugmark. Though game wasn't as plenty as in Corbett's days, there is still some left. After this short outing, we returned to the dak bungalow.
It was noon by now, and I decide to leave Kaladhungi and get to Nainital for the night. So, packing up, I leave Kaladhungi at around 12 noon, started on a slow ride to Nainital, some 40 kilometers away. The ride up to Nainital proved to be one of the most beautiful rides I've ever done, with the Himalayan foothills unfolding themselves curve by curve, and a great multitude of birds to be seen and observed. As the road gained altitude, breathtaking views of the mountains presented themselves, and one often tends to forget the road and savour the scenery in view. I was also welcomed by two great vultures soaring over treetops, and then a black eagle. It rained for sometime a few kilometers before Nainital. I waited for some 30 minutes, and then reached Nainital by around 3pm. The roads were all very good, except for a few bad stretches a little before Nainital. Our roosting place will be the Mount View Tourist Rest House, with the Cheena hills towering in front. The evening saw clear skies and a gentle breeze, and I spent it around the Naini Lake, relaxing and trying to shoot some kingfishers that were busy fishing. A perfect hill station, I should say. DAY 8: Around Nainital Today let us spend in Nainital, resting and enjoying the hill station. Corbett, in one of his books, while describing Nainital, takes his readers to a high view point, called Cheena Peak. The peak is still called Cheena Peak, but not many go there during these rainy months. So I decide to spend the morning going upto Cheena peak and try to get some birds. I left Nainital at 8AM, and after a few kilometers of walk, found the point from where a footpath took off up the hill towards the Cheena Peak 3 kilometers away. It proved to be a stiff climb, but the beautiful scenery compensated, and after spending some time at the peak, where I met with two mountaineers who had climbed the peak from the steep side, I returned to the rest house by 3pm. The evening I spent having a boat ride around the Naini lake,
Tomorrow, let us leave Nainital and go to Binsar wildlife sanctuary, some 30kms north of Almora, which is 65kms north of Nainital. DAY 9: Nainital to Binsary Wildlife Sanctuary - Roughly 100 kilometers I left Nainital at 9AM, and took the road towards Almora. The road for the next 50 or so kilometers, goes along the Kosi River. There is no dearth of scenery, and one place is as beautiful as antoher. Almora was a beautiful town situated on a hillside, with houses scattered all around. Looked a bit crowdy though. Past Almora, we take the Bageshwar road. Some 20kms later, a right turn signals the beginning of our ride into Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. The rest house is 10 kilometers away. A forest checkpost is at this junction. The next 10kms was how a typical forest road should be - broken, narrow, and
very rough. The road also climbs steeply at many places, for Binsar is at a height
of some 2800 meters. We arrive at the rest house, at around 1.30pm, a little tired.
A hot and sumptous lunch later, and we're told there is a view point some 2 kilometer
walk away through the forest. So I decide to check it out, and taking the camera
and the tripod, I start for the viewpoint.
The next 30 minutes gave me some anxious moments, as it became almost dark, and I, carefully negotiating curves and keeping a lookout for any animal movements, reached the rest house. As long as there is light, man is in his elements, and goes where he wills. But when darkness shrouds, he is robbed of all his defences, and left to the mercy of his imaginations. And imagination can play strange tricks in strange places. DAY 10: At Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary Last night it rained very heavily, and continued till 9AM in the morning.
The clouds slowly lifted, and from the terrace of the rest house, we had some
wonderful views of the Himalayan snowline.
I didn't see anything, and the langur stopped after an hour. But I'm convinced that some predator was around, and I was only given the slip. I returned to the rest house early today, to spare myself of some anxious moments to hurry back, as yesterday. Tomorrow we will leave Binsar by noon, and halt at Sattal Rest House, on our way to Delhi. We have to leave for Delhi on 18th, day after tomorrow. DAY 11: At Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary Today afternoon we have to leave Binsar and go to Sattal resthouse, on our way to Delhi. Tomorrow we will go to Delhi to catch the night train to Bangalore. So I thought I'll spend the morning again around the viewpoint. The mist didn't lift until 10AM; after that while on my way to the viewpoint, I was very fortunate to see a lone Muntjac in a curve. Shooting wasn't possible as I was shouldering the tripod with the camera fixed, and any movement will now be detected. However, though the deer didn't notice me, some tourists who had arrived earlier, came down the track a little noisily, and the muntjac just vanished. After lunch, I left Binsar at 3pm. A staff of the rest house came with me
upto Almora. After Almora it was a pleasant ride. The roads were very good, and
allowed good speeds, and was mostly downhill.
Today is our last day in Uttaranchal. Tomorrow we will leave early on our way to Delhi, 300 kilometers away, through Kathgodam, Haldwani, Rudrapur and Moradabad. I'm also told that I should reach the New Delhi Railway Station at the earliest so that I can book my bike early for luggage and ensure the bike also comes in the same train as I. DAY 12: Sattal to New Delhi Railway Station - Roughly 300 Kilometers I left Sattal at 5AM, hoping to reach New Delhi railway station by 12noon. I watched the sun rise as I rode down the hills towards Haldwani. It was a memorable sight, I should say. Past Haldwani, very good roads took me to Moradabad. Past Moradabad, it started raining. I waited 30minutes for the rains to stop, but then realized that this is not a rain that is going to stop. So I decided to get wet, and resumed the journey. From then on, it poured and poured so much, that the visibility on the road became very less. I entered Delhi soaking wet at 12.30pm, and after an hour found my way to the railway station. I booked the bike as luggage, and after drying up, changing and resting at the nearby Yatri Nivas, I boarded the Karnataka Express at 9.30pm and reached Bangalore two days later. For some reasons, the bike couldn't come with me in the same train, and she reached Bangalore four days later. I remain thankful to the Almighty for the countless blessings and the
Guiding Hand.
This trip also strengthened my opinion - that a majority of people in rural areas, and high up in the mountains, where commercilisation hasn't penetrated deep, continue to be men of character and simplicity, while a majority of men in cities and towns are mostly frauds and cheats, who will almost do anything for money, amidst whom I find it difficult to say 'Mera Bharat Mahan'. Luck plays a major role in any endeavour, and I consider myself very fortunate for having been able to complete the whole tour without a hitch. The End. |
pass, through very scenic
landscape, where there is no forest or agricultural land, but just plain land stretching
into the horizon, with trees here and there.
After Seoni, at Lakhnadon, we part ways
with NH 7, and take NH 26. Immediately the road becomes narrower, worser and pot hole
ridden. I stop, take out the map, and recheck if we're on the right route, and wonder
if this is how the road is going to be upto Jhansi.
Past Jhansi the skies are clear and the sun shines. We pass Gwalior, and
then, much to our relief, NH 26 is behind us, and we take on NH 3, on its way
to Delhi. NH 3, past Gwalior, had six lanes with medians, and is sheer pleasure
to ride on. It is by now late afternoon, and as we cruise on NH 3, with scenic
landscape around, we are enthralled to see a few Egyptian Vultures on a carcass
in a field on the right side of the road. But the median doesn't allow us to
cross the road to watch the vultures, so we ride another kilometer, take a U
turn at the next median crossing, and come back to the vultures. This is the first
time I'm seeing Egyptian vultures, and hence I'm delighted. A couple of shots
later, the vultures are also tired of my presence; so in order not to disturb them
any further, we turn and proceed on our way towards Agra.
But what attracted us more was
the huge number of birds that were present in the gardens around Taj Mahal.
There were also a couple of Egyptian Vultures perched high up on one of the
towers in front. We decide not to enter Taj Mahal, but spend our time shooting
the birds and animals around.
Then, past Bareilly, we have lunch at a nice
restaurant on the bye pass of Badehi. Post lunch, we are on the road to Nainital,
some 100 kilometers away. 40kms before Nainital, we are at the town of Haldwani,
often mentioned by Jim Corbett in his books. From Haldwani, we take a left turn
towards Kaladhungi, 20 kms away. The road is simply very very good, though not very
wide, allowing as much speed as one wishes. The road is also very scenic, passing
through quite dense forests, and an occassional village. We can also now see the
first of the foothills of the Mighty Himalayas to rise from the plains. Before
we know, we're at Kaladhungi.
At about 9AM,
after breakfast at a beautiful resort some 4kms away on the Ramnagar road,
I visited Corbett's winter home, the museum.
A good number of Corbett's
memorandums, articles of Corbett's time, a number of portraits, were on
display. The museum appeared to be well maintained, and a number of pigeons
and mynas now live in the gardens.
for the weather
was pleasant and the kingfishers were again fishing. But bad light didn't allow
any decent shots.
The walk through the dense forest proved
to be very good and satisfying, and the viewpoint was also a nice place to be.
Watching out for birds, enjoying the scenery, and generally relaxing, I lost track
of time, and it suddenly began to get dark. It was 6pm by now, and I am still at
the view point. I'd read that the sanctuary is inhabited by Himalayan Black Bears,
bears being the only animals I'm terribly afraid of.
We were pointed out the Trisul,
Nandadevi, Nandakot and Panchchuli peaks, showing white and shiny through the
clouds. A scene that tempts one to go further north and explore the peaks.
That would be for another day.
The morning I again spend walking up and down the track to the viewpoint.
The afternoon also I wanted to do the same thing, so after lunch I again
started on the walk to the viewpoint, which is called zero-point here, when
a little past the rest house, on the track, I heard a langur giving its alarm
call. Moving slowly, I spotted the langur up on a treek by the side of the track,
but didn't see anything else. For the next one hour I tried to see if any leopard
is in the vicinity, as the old solitary langur gave its alarm call,
every minute or so. My suspicion was strengthened, when I saw an eagle
gliding past over the forest floor a little in front of me, as I stood motionless.
However, near Bhowali it rained
heavily and I had to wait for an hour or so. I reached the Sattal rest house at
6pm.
I enjoyed the tour throughout, except for the two days when
I toiled along NH26 through a rural Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh, through
broken, pothole-ridden, filthy roads, shamefully called National Highway.