Programme: Trekking to Kanoorukote

Date: 23, 24 November 2002

Organizers: Youth Hostels Association of India[YHAI], Bangalore

The program agenda was to trek to Meghana hills, a 15km one, on the first day, and the next day do a 20km trek to reach the fort atop the mountain and back – known as Kanoorukote – meaning the Fort at Kanooru. We were 19 strong, including a couple, software engineers, a wildlife photographer, an architect, two organizers and some long-time trekking veterans. A Swaraj Mazda had been arranged for the journey.

22nd November 2002 Friday:
We assembled at YHAI, Vasantha Nagar at 8.30pm. Mr. Sashidhar introduced himself as the in-charge, and after a small introductory briefing, we bundled our entire luggage atop the van, and took off. The route plan was to take the National Highway 4[Chennai – Mumbai], touch Tumkur, and take diversion from Tumkur, and through Arisikere and Shimoga reach Sagar. Sagar is 400-odd kilometers from Bangalore. The ride up to Tumkur was smooth on the NH, but once we took the state highway for Shimoga from Tumkur, the nightmare began. The roads are in very bad shape in this stretch, and negotiating through the numerous gaping potholes proved to be very strenuous for both the vehicle as well as the driver. As usual, I was awake most of the time, sitting beside the driver, and watching the road.

23rd November 2002 Saturday:
The night was very cold, and after Shimoga, there was dense fog on the road, and we just managed to reach Sagar safely at around daybreak (5.30AM). We decided to wait for 30 minutes or so for the day to break and the fog to clear up. Hot tea was eagerly taken to relax us after the stiff, rough and cold journey. Around 6.30AM, we moved a little further into Sagar, to pick up our local guides – a regular help to trekkers and two tribal boys for carrying the rations and some vessels meant for cooking. Then our lady friends realized that a golden earring had been dropped somewhere while having tea. However, very luckily they were able to find it after going back to the place. From Sagar, we drove to a small place called Bachodi, some 70 kilometers away. At Bachodi, our break was a small village school, wherein we bathed and changed at a nearby stream. Breakfast had already been prepared since our arrival had been informed beforehand. The local teachers and students showed great hospitality, and we felt perfectly in harmony with them. Then, breakfast was served, after a 10-minute religious song recital by a few schoolgirls. It was very gladdening to see them being given a proper education, and taught all good manners, for they were descendants of a tribal group, whose forefathers had been living remotely and out of civilization for centuries.

After a sumptuous breakfast of idlis, vadas and cooked, we packed up, for we aren’t going to return here for the night. We drove a few kms from Bachodi, and the van dropped us off at a place from where a dirt track leads up into the mountains. It was 15 past 1lAM and the plan was to trek up the mountains, visit the peak of Meghana Hills, and climb down another steep side of the mountain, to join the van on the other side. The lunch had already been prepared at Bachodi, and the guide boys were carrying it. The trek began, and the dirt track went winding and winding up into the mountains. The path was about 6 feet wide, narrow at places. Since the path was steep, each of us were doing it at our own pace, some veterans keeping up the pace in the front of the line, while the old did it slow and steady. The confidence and strength of the old trekkers needs a mention here – we had a couple of men well past the 50-year mark, and they were going steady. At a steep Z turn on the way up, I was lucky to spot a snake winding its way up a branchless tree. At first, I mistook the sound for a chameleon or something, but a second stare revealed a long and beautiful snake. I couldn’t make out its breed, but it was swift, agile and graceful. The photographer would’ve had a great snap here, but unfortunately he was in the top of the line, trying to shoot some wildlife before the line came up. As the day wore on, we had reached a good altitude, and were trekking along the shoulder of the mountains – breaks of 10 minutes or so was often taken to gain breath – for the climb was physically exhausting. The trek up revealed more and more beautiful sights of the valley below and the mountains on the opposite side. By noon, we arrived at a small hut, part of a hamlet. We rested here for a good 30 minutes, and picked up a local boy who is to guide us to the peak of Meghana hills. We had a good ~3km trek ahead of us, and signs of weariness was seen on a few.

This last trek up to Meghana peak took us through open hillside, wearing a green carpet of grass. The way to the peak was steep at places, and was dangerous enough since a slip could mean a long roll down the grassy slope. While a good number of the group didn’t attempt this, for it looked as dangerous as it was beautiful, and the group was already exhausted. But a determined 9 of us did do it, and managed to reach the peak. I should be honest to state here that I was also very exhausted, and was breathless, and every few 100 meters up needed a minute or so of break. But the steely nerve kept, and with the others, at last, I was atop the peak. A feeling of conquering tides over us, as we look back at the mountains that we’d climbed. The view from this peak is amazing, with the never ending mountain ranges stretching across the horizon. We were slightly able to see the Arabian Sea at a distance, but mild fog prevented a clear view. I guess that on a clear sunny day one might be able to see the sea very clearly from this peak. After a 15 to 20 minute break here, relishing the whole experience, taking a lot of snaps, it was time to return, since the others down the peak were waiting for us.

Lunch was had after joining them. I had a sumptuous one, with chapathis and vegetable palya. But there was an acute shortage of water, since we’d exhausted all our bottles. Whatever was available was shared among the most desperate. Refreshed, and with a renewed energy level, we started our trek down the mountains, the guide urging us to hurry at top speed, since we had a long way to go, but only very few hours of daylight left. It was obvious that if it became dark before we reached the road, we would be having a very tough time, since the path down is going to be very steep, and the impending dangers are obvious. We were now taking a different route now, to join the van, as we passed a hamlet. A water stream was running by, and I, having been ahead of the line now, had enough time to refresh myself again and load myself with enough water. From this hamlet, sort of a nightmare began. Until now, the trek had been through dirt tracks, or well worn paths, where we had a foothold. The route ahead of us now, was no route, but just a way through dense mountainside, down the steep valleys. At places, it was slippery too, and the night was fast approaching, for now it was past 5pm, and daylight had diminished. In half dark, we were stumbling down the forest, in a single long line, time and again calling out to others ahead or behind us, to ensure one is in line. The thought of getting lost now was very realistic, and terrifying. I did have a few falls, but managed to stay in line, like others. I was just wondering when this awful jogging down will get over, for my legs were fully tired by now, and the brain exhausted. After an hour or so of this, I found myself suddenly jumping onto the road from inside the canopy of trees. The van was waiting, juice was being served, and others who had already reached, were removing their shoes to find leeches. This menace needs a mention here, for the thick forest was infested with them, and as we were stumbling along the vegetation, they’d have stuck to us. Some had many, and a few girls had large spots of blood in their socks. I don’t know why, but I had just one leech, with a small spot of blood on my socks. After a good 20 or 30 minute of rest and juice, we boarded the van. It wasn’t over yet; for we had another 2km trek to reach the place we were to stay overnight. The van again dropped us at a diversion a few km away. All this had been too much for one middle aged man in the group, and he was begging the organizer to let him go, for he was very sure that he could never do the next 2km. It needed much convincing and assuring from many of us, and he finally agreed to do it slowly, and said would leave the next day by bus and head for Bangalore. It was fully dark by now, and in torchlight, we did a slow trek to the shelter. The shelter was a Brahmin pujari’s, and he was the priest of a temple nearby. Supper was prepared, and served. A delicious one, with a variety of items, I relished it. Especially, the sambar served was very tasty, and the vegetables were too good. An hour or so was spent gossiping, joking and singing, in the name of campfire, a hurricane lamp serving as the fire. Weary as everyone was, we soon retired for the night, huddled together, for the night was a little cold. I slept well, without much interrupts.

24th November 2002 Sunday:
By daybreak, at 5.45AM, we were all up and brushing. Tea and biscuits were served, and after this light snack, we set off to see the temple. A series of steps behind the shelter took us along some rocks and to a place some 100 meters above the shelter. A small temple is situated here, and the location is breathtaking. On the sides of the mountain, big rocks protruding out added to the beauty. A spring from higher up was flowing down, and a mini waterfall was in place next to the temple, on the stones. Water was plenty, and sweet. This scenic place, along with the temple, is a very picturesque spot and worth a visit. A lot of snaps were taken here and I had a quick dip in the falls. We then returned to the shelter, and in a hurry, packed up and after profusely thanking the Brahmin for his hospitality, we leave the place. The 2km trek back took us to the van on the road. A 45-minute through mud paths took us to a small hamlet called Kanooru. A man called Naik lives here in a tiled house with his family, and provides guidance and food for trekkers. He had prepared uppittu, a food item made from rava. We had a sumptuous breakfast, and after filling up our lunchboxes with lemon rice and pickle, set off on the trek to the fort. The target now is the Fort, which is situated high up and deep inside the forests, some 9.5 kilometers away. The trek wasn’t as steep as it was on the previous day, and we did it at our ease. En route, we rested at a stream, relishing the cool and clear water. Further up, the path entered deep forests, where the sunlight didn’t reach the ground. At midday time, the forest was half dark, and it was an eerie place to be. There was no other human in sight, except our group. We reached the fort at last, by around 1pm. The fort was almost in ruins, with only the entrance walls and compound walls remaining. Everything was made of stone, and they must’ve stood there for centuries, since we could see the stones caving down. But the place was also very dangerous, for it was infested with snakes and dense bushes. One needs to be lucky enough to return without snakebite. Passing the entrance of the fort, we reach two temples situated side by side.

The temples were very old, and the stones were leaning down. Someone had dug up the small place inside deep, evidently in search of ancient treasures. Moreover, the air inside was very stale, and one would find it difficult to breath inside. Screeching of bats inside added to the eeriness. After shooting the temples, we rest at a nearby waterhole. The water was dirty at the banks. Lunch was had here. In my eagerness to have a slight wash in the water, I slip, fall and much to my dismay, dirty my shoes and legs with thick dirt and mud. Convincing myself that it is all part of the game, I sit down and have a stomach full of lemon rice and pickle. ;) Lunch over, and we start our way back. The route is the same as we came up, and the lead organizer instructed everyone to break at the stream half way down to re assemble. We started off exactly at 3pm, and myself and a fellow trekker kept the lead, well ahead of others, and after a stiff 1 hour non stop walk down, we reached the stream, but to our surprise, not the same place where we’d rested while on our way up. It was the same stream, all right, but at a different point. So now, what?? I was of the idea that since we had a good 30 minutes before others reached, I can cool off. Now the idea was in shambles, for I had to find out the correct place where the others would assemble. I was sure that point was on the right side of the stream, and so asking him to remain where he was, I followed the stream through the rocks on the right side. At a distance of 200 meters, I did find the place, and on my way back to get him, I found other team members wading through the stream. Obviously, they’d also lost way, and had reached the wrong point in the stream. Well, it was 5pm by now, and my ideas of cooling off had to be cancelled, since we had to reach Naik’s place before dusk. I was very tired by now, and somehow managed to do this last leg of the trek, slowly, and steadily, with another trekker in company. We did a slow and steady trek, overtaking some on the way, and reached the van, parked at Naik’s place well ahead of others. This lead gave enough time for a refreshing wash and drink, and a change of clothes. After everyone arrived, tea was served, and group photos taken. There was a conclusion briefing by the organizer, and after bidding adieu to Mr. Naik, we set off for Bangalore. En route, we broke at Sagar, for supper. A tired lot, many of us limped into the hotel. We didn’t take the same route for the return trip, fearing the bad roads, and from Arisikere, we reached the Bangalore Mangalore highway, which was in a good shape to join NH4 again at Nelamangala, and from there on to Bangalore. We reached Bangalore at around 6AM on Monday, 25th.

On the whole, this outing was very adventurous and exhausting, and like myself, everyone else did enjoy it thoroughly. Three cheers to YHAI for great planning and professionally organizing the programme.